Graflex.org

[ktm_2000]

Hi All,

Let me start this off with I did something dumb, I have a theory of what I did wrong it but would like confirmation.

I've been shooting my 2x3 and 4x5 graflex cameras with primarily tmax400 120 roll film in the 6x9 format. A while back I purchased a 3 roll patterson tank and a B's developing insert and a 25 sheet box of Arista EDU 100 film.

I shot 6 holders worth of 4x5 a while back at my sister's wedding but haven't processed them yet, I was a bit concerned about making sure I developed it right before I messed with those shots.

Tonight I loaded up 3 holders and did some test shots around the house and all the negatives turned out the same.

Here's a shot of the negative
https://photos.app.goo.gl/98Qq1bqsjDXSGs8Y8
quick inverted in photoshop - no other modifications
https://photos.app.goo.gl/CbcSmCTbUXTHXWBL9

all have the same pattern 1/2 or so of the film is gone and there is a reddish pink band in the middle where it starts to go bad.

I developed in sprint standard 1+9 developer and followed the massive dev chart for developing times. I did flush the tank 3x with 68 degree water before starting to develop and the water came out fairly darkly colored, I wasn't sure if it had a halation layer so I flushed.

my theory is a while back I loaded up a few film holders to shoot at my sister's wedding and my hands were getting pretty clammy in the dark bag and I had the unexposed film in the bag but not in the box and took my hands out and opened the dark bag and based upon my theory ruined the film.

Since 1/2 the frame came out and looks decent, I hope the shots from the wedding are still good as when I loaded those holders I had the film in the holders prior to opening the dark bag.

Is my theory of ruining the film reasonable? or does it look more like a light leak?

[45PSS]

Are the colored streaks on the negative? If not its dirty scanner glass or other optical chain.

The film appears to have been fogged. Keep unexposed/unprocessed film in total darkness be it the box the film comes in or loaded film holders and only handle in total darkness. A dark bag works. In a room sit for 5 minutes with the lights off then hold your hand 6 inches in front of your face, if you cannot see your hand then its dark enough to handle film.
_________________
The best camera ever made is the one that YOU enjoy using and produces the image quality that satifies YOU.

[ktm_2000]

the pink is on the negative, the images of the negatives are from just using a cell phone. Since the quality is so poor I dind't want to waste time on them.

In last night's photo shoot, in trying to rush to get a pic of my twin 3 year old girls sitting on my wife's lap, I messed up one sheet where I left the shutter open and pulled the dark slide to try and get a pic while the kids where in one place. I pulled the negative from the holder and let it completely expose. That shot I didn't try to develop and as an experiment I put it in the fixer without going into the developer first and the sheet turned a fairly bright pink.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/hLFiACoh9wp6xN429

It is kind of interesting that there is some color in the process, it shocked me as I put it in the fixer while the other negatives were in the rinse process, thought I bought some type of color film and all the negatives were junk.

I'm going to order up some more film and keep trying as well as develop the shots from the wedding which hopefully turn out good.

[45PSS]

How fresh is your fixer?
_________________
The best camera ever made is the one that YOU enjoy using and produces the image quality that satifies YOU.

[ktm_2000]

I've made up a new batch of fixer every time I've bought a new quart of developer concentrate, I started on a new bottle not that long ago so I think the fixer has had 3 rolls of 120 and 2 rolls of 35mm run through it before last night.

It took the fixer a little over 30 seconds in an open container to go from opaque to the pink

Under normal developing, I keep my film in the fixer for 5 min and agitate for the 1st min and 10 seconds each additional min.

[45PSS]

That sounds good. T grain films (T Max) have a pinkish cast when fixed, it may clear with additional fixing.
Antihalation dye is green and comes of in the pre wash or developer.
_________________
The best camera ever made is the one that YOU enjoy using and produces the image quality that satifies YOU.

[ktm_2000]

It is interesting that you mention that the anti-halation layer would come out in the pre-wash or developer, I did wash the film 3x and the water was dark green each time and even after the developer the stop bath was somewhat colored by the green coloring.

I didn't go to the point of the water running clear in the pre-wash, another lesson learned for next time.

I put the negatives on the light table and checked out the parts which weren't fogged then took a cell phone pic of one of the better ones then played with it a bit in photoshop. I am quite happy with the resolution and tone so hopefully the next batch of film goes much better
https://photos.app.goo.gl/3SBxuGovJVm3wQp57

I got my order in at B&H for another 25 pack of film as well as a connector cable to hook up the shutter to my remote flash transmitter.

[45PSS]

I prewash for 3 to 5 minutes then agitate before dumping.
_________________
The best camera ever made is the one that YOU enjoy using and produces the image quality that satifies YOU.

[JESimmons]

For me the Tmax films have always been difficult to clear completely in prewash. I usually soak for about five minutes in a large tank with lots of water. I use one shot developers and when pouring them out, could see a green tint. After fixing the negatives have a pink cast. So, I don’t think any of that is your problem.

When I lived in Florida, I had to use a changing bag. The general heat plus the additional heat inside the bag caused my hands to sweat, and upon opening the bag, I could feel additional humidity inside. I never got negatives like yours.

I agree with 45PPS - it looks more like fog to me.