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3 cell battery case heating up

 
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Joined: 11 Sep 2019
Posts: 4
Location: Ottawa, ON

PostPosted: Wed Sep 11, 2019 5:26 pm    Post subject: 3 cell battery case heating up Reply with quote

Hey folks,

I got lucky and obtained a 3x4 Anniversary Speed Graphic along with a minty looking chrome 3 cell battery case and flash synchronizer, and I've been trying to get clean them both up and get them back to fully functioning order.

Something has been bugging me though about the battery case and other parts of the handle. For the life of me, I can't figure out why after a few minutes in the case, the batteries start overheating, warming up the handle, and then die right out. There doesn't seem to be anything causing current draw (no bulb, spotlight off), and with a fresh set of batteries the handle works until the batteries drain dry within 30 minutes to an hour.

It leads me to believe there's a short, but from what I can tell there isn't anything that would be causing the circuit to be completed. As I don't have replacement rivets for the handle, I'm loathe to do a full teardown to check in the bakelite insulator for the flash contacts, especially before I can see a wiring diagram (which as of yet I haven't been able to locate, nor can I find the service manual for the chrome Flash Synchronizer; I only can find the Graflite manual).

I'm also trying to figure out what the design was for the battery case and current flow - obviously again, a wiring diagram issue, but it looks like and seems like current flows through the chrome handle to the bulb and back? Obviously, the flashbulb will only fire if the 3 cell extension is connected to the handle, but it seems like there's actual current flow through the handle and clamp (I've been having some issues with maintaining electrical contact between the bottom part of the battery case and the top part, leading for the focus spot to be able to be lit and bulb to be popped, but no voltage to pass through the cable to the solenoid. I've confirmed it's not an issue with the solenoid, and definitely not an issue with the cable. It seems to be an issue with linkage through the clamp, as liquid graphite smeared on the clamp makes the connection solid and no issues.

I'd like to avoid relying on graphite in the long run, as it's pretty messy, so if someone can clue me in on how this thing is supposed to be wired, or has the service manual with an exploded view, that would be fantastic.
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45PSS



Joined: 28 Sep 2001
Posts: 4081
Location: Mid Peninsula, Ca.

PostPosted: Thu Sep 12, 2019 2:21 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

You've definitely have a short circuit.
Check all cable connections as described in this instruction manual:
http://www.cameramanuals.org/prof_pdf/graflex_flash_synchronizer.pdf
At one time there was an Anniversary Service manual from the military linked to that showed the Graflex Synchronoizer but I can not remember where it was posted. The military service manual was for the Anniversary Speed Graphic and was purchased from https://www.butkus.org/chinon/.

If the synchronizer heats up with no cords connected then its a breakdown in the synchronizer. 90% alcohol or CRC QD Electronic Contact Cleaner https://www.homedepot.com/p/CRC-11-oz-QD-Electronic-Cleaner-05103/205021975 may be your friend to aid in removing the carbonized dust from the tube.
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Joined: 11 Sep 2019
Posts: 4
Location: Ottawa, ON

PostPosted: Fri Sep 13, 2019 3:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for confirming 45PSS. I forgot about checking the military C-3 manual - the tear down and cleaning instructions are in there. I’ll give it a shot as soon as I get my hands on a new clamp rivet.

Thanks!
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Joined: 11 Sep 2019
Posts: 4
Location: Ottawa, ON

PostPosted: Wed Dec 04, 2019 7:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

So I think I fixed my flash handle; it was not easy, and it did eventually end with me having to buy a few replica parts (mostly the bunny ears clamp rivet, a new focus spot side switch, and one stupid copper conductor...grumble). All in all, it took a few weeks, a lot of cursing up and down, and around $70USD.

I'm not entirely sure where the short circuit was; I'm assuming honestly that it was the lack of the insulator pad on the battery contact that prevents the side switch from contacting it. I managed to clean up all the parts, reassemble the handle following the instructions from the C-3 manual on butkus.org (mostly; I ended up breaking the battery contact in half when trying to get it in its slot in the base of the electrical module, and I thought I could be clever and get a new side switch assembly and install it after I installed the electrical module...no dice on that one). All in all, with a few replica parts from one of the SW conversion suppliers that also supplies parts to reverse a deconstruction, I've managed to get my flash working entirely consistently and perfectly.

I do not recommend doing a disassembly for everyone. It's a rough go at it, and a few times I hit points where I wondered if I would get it fixed...
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