Graflex.org

[cmaurice]

I have read all of the previous posts dealing with this topic and am still a little unsure...
I have a Crown Graphic with a Kodak Ektar 127mm lens in a Graphic supermatic(x)shutter.
I also have a Vivitar 283 flash purchased for use with this camera.
Do I just need to get a Bipost to vivitar cord from Paramount, hook it up and go? Or is it a bit more involved?
Off the topic a little, what is the function of the small domelike like object on the top of my lens? It sits between the bipost and the shutter cock.

[Les]

a new bipost cord will make it function. but remember when you were using that flash on 35mm it worked well at something like f2.4 or f4 .

Now you'll be shooting wide open (f4.7) and hope you can get 8 feet.

that little dome shaped thing is a press button. This allows you to open the lens and ground glass view something without moving the shutter to B or T.

Cock the shutter, hold the button down and trip the shutter, it'll "hang" open. to close, cock the shutter again.

[jdman]

Les, you have lost me. What would be the difference between F4.7 on the Graflex and Say F4 on a 35MM? My Vivitar 3900 at full power shows 3.3 feet to 30 feet on Auto mode at F4 ASA 100. Thanks Russ

[dkt]

The 283 should work fine, I used one for a long time with a Speed Graphic. The lens I was using had a regular synch plug--not a bi-pole, but I've used a Paramount Bi-pole to household sync with Ektar lenses & strobe too...When I used the 283, I just set the auto dials like I was shooting any other format....the only problem might be with coverage of the film and certain lenses, since the 283 was made mostly for 35mm format, but I never had too many problems.

Oh yeah, if all you're doing is shooting on a tripod or trying to do some studio work or something, you don't really need a pc cord or anything....just fire the shutter on B or T and pop off the flash yourself....I've even done this on a slow shutter speed...press the shutter with one finger, fire the strobe with the other hand...if you're working in a dark area, you can build exposures with multiple flashes as well....

[ This Message was edited by: dkt on 2002-04-08 16:01 ]

[cmaurice]

Thanks for the info, The tip about the "dome" will be especially helpful. I decided to get a flash after attempting to photograph a 91 year old woman with mild alzheimers, using just flood and spot lamps. Of course posing (her) was out of the question, and sitting still was another short lived adventure. She was fascinated by the wrapper of the butterscotch candy I dropped on the floor though. I figured a small flash unit would help next time. I am a "low budget" shooter and studio strobes are a "somewhere down the road"item.

[dkt]

If you want to shoot handheld with the 283...I made a flash bracket for my Graphics (speed & pacemaker) out of an old battery tube for a flashgun. The part that has the clips on it that mate with the side of the camera. I used a small Bogen mini-clamp--the tiny clamp used in the superclamp system, it has a 1/4 20 screw on top. I clamped this to the flashgun handle and screwed an accesory shoe (from a Stroboframe bracket) to it & slid the 283 onto that. I aimed it ever so slightly towards the center of the frame...works great, but it's ugly. If you're close enough you can bounce flash with it or use diffusers. I made another better looking one from a short piece of PVC pipe as well, and shimmed up the "handle" to fit those clamps. Hope you understand these descriptions, anyways good luck.

[cmaurice]

I haven't shot anything handheld with it yet. I am pondering removing the side kalart RF because I haven't used it, and it needs to be calibrated.

[alecj]

You'll diminish the value of your camera.

Read this first:

http://graflex.org/speed-graphic/kalart-adjustment.html

[dkt]

I don't usually use the rangefinders on mine...I either rough focus on the ground glass & handhold it (cross my fingers, hope depth of field carries the focus) or i prefocus on a spot, and then guesstimate my framing...I use the peep finders or the sportsfinder to help. I usually try about ten feet or so and will sometimes tie a string at the right distance to the front standard....If I can, I have the subject hold the string & I back up until taught, have them drop it--get it out of the shot--and shoot...after a while, you can eyeball ten feet easily. If you shoot with enough flash, and get enough d-o-f, this works...there was alot of press photography done this way in the old days...if you can find a used strobe like a Lumidyne or an old Norman 200B...the 200 watts of power is great for shooting this way. The round reflector & sometimes bare tube lighting makes a really great image quality on a Graflex....I print old press negs from the 30's on in my job, and am amazed at the tack sharp images shot with direct flash from the side...on 4x5 the tonality of the skin etc., on a news photo is incredible...it's totally different than direct flash on a smaller camera.....