Graflex.org

[Tyler]

Hello,
I am so happy with my Speed Graphic.....just a little frightened by the Graflex Flash with those large bulbs. I have three dogs that are always around me; the thought of glass particles possibly flying through the air...
I cannot find a shield for the seven inch reflector....so
I have decided to purchase a Metz flash ?????, but I am going crazy with all the model numbers.... and then one site says use the CL another says the CT......and then there is the CL-1....Cl-4 etc,etc,etc. I can pick any one of these units up on ebay, just which one in your opinions does the best job when coupled with a Speed Graphic ?
Thank you for your help.

[mopar_guy]

Tyler,
Something to consider is trying to get the leaf shutter to syncronize with an electronic flash. A lot of 2x3 Speed Graphics come with Ektar lenses in a Kodak Flash Supermatic shutter. If your camera has this type of shutter, you may need to modify the shutter to use electronic flash. Most shutters that are "X" sync are able to sync with electronic flash. If you could let us know what type of shutter you have, one of us may be able to help you with more detailed information.
Regards,
Dave
_________________
I guess that I could get a digital camera but it would be obsolete in a couple of years (three tops). Or I could use my 3x4 Anniversary Speed Graphic. Heck, it's been obsolete for 50 years. That's way better than digital.

[Tyler]

I have the Graflex Optar 135mm that came with the purchase of the camera...I already have a bi-post sync cord to a Metz Flash .....if that will work? At this time all my other lenses are contemporary lenses with pc syncs.....I am intertested in older lenses that I have been reading about .....the 178mm Ektar, the 380mm Wollenak and so on. I know the issue with the barrel lenses, but do the bi posts on the lenses allow for the Metz Flash sufficiently......by the way the whole solenoid thing confuses me....I feel like a beginner and I have been shooting for thirty years.

[Tyler]

I forgot to mention that it is the 4x5 Speed Graphic

[C. Henry]

If you have the Kodak Flash Supermatic Shutter like mine the trick to make it sync an eletronic flash is to NOT cock the syncronizer. I have used a Metz 45CT-1 with this shutter with no problems. If this shutter has been modified, it was done before I bought the camera about a half a century ago.

I have checked that the sync is on time with this shutter at all speeds from 1/10 to 1/400 of a second.

One thing to remember is that many electronic flashes (including my Metz 45CT-1) have a high voltage trigger circuit which might cause problems to a sensitive shutter such as is on many of the digital and recent 35 MM film SLR cameras.

C. Henry

[Tyler]

What I have is a Graphex Shutter with a bi-post sync labeled X.....
I am not looking to use the Metz on any digital cameras, maybe I will give it a try on my 500c/m Hasselblad.....so you think that the Metz CT-1 is the right unit? I also read that for flashbulbs the lens should be set to M not X......the Graphex shutter does not have M .....does shooting at a slower shutter speed solve that problem?

[C. Henry]

Tyler;

The 45CT-1 works for me, but I believe that any Metz unit that matches your bi-pole to Metz cord will do the job. There will be some differences in the settings for the distance from one unit to another but the calculator dial on each unit should be correct for that unit.
You are in an area that has many Graflex users, you might try to contact a few of them and see what they are using. You might have a chance to try someone's gear to get a feel for what you want for your use. Don't worry about which model of Metz flash is the absolute best just that you get one that works well for you.
While I have never used a Graphex Shutter I seem to recall that they were intended to be synced by solenoid when used with bulbs.

C. Henry

[Henry]

Depends on the shutter. If it has M-F-X synch on the built-in synchronizer, as all four of my Graphex shutters do, then you don't need the solenoid. Simply set the synchro at the proper M-setting (there are two) for the type of flash bulb (SM or SF). Then hope that the flash contacts inside the synchro are clean and aligned properly, and all the little gear trains in the synchro are doing their thing. Prayers help; those failing, a good set of jeweler's screwdrivers and the Graphex shutter manual, and a bit of mechanical aptitude, will get you started.

[Tyler]

My lens only has an X sync...Does that mean I can never use flashbulbs with this lens? My camera came with a Graflex flash and this lens.
As I first posted I want to purchase an electronic flash, but I always like to know my options.

[mopar_guy]

Tyler,
You want to know what options you have with your speed graphic. The good news is, there are lots of options. The bad news is that having lots of options can make all of this a bit confusing.

Senario #1; (electronic flash): Assuming that you have a Graphex shutter with no internal synchronizer all you need is an appropriate cord to connect the bi-post connections to your flash. Shutters with no synchronizer usually are labeled "(X)" somwhere on the front.

Senario #2; (Flashbulbs): Assuming that you have a Graphex shutter with no internal synchronizer you will need a solenoid to get 'M' synchronization (a 20millisecond delay) to allow the medium peak bulbs to sync with your shutter. For this you can either use the flash to trip the solenoid after it has fired the flashbulb or you will need to get a lens with an internal synchronizer. Then you can trip the lens shutter release (either normally or with a soleniod) and let the lens syncrnizer give you the correct delay.

Senario #3; (Focal plane shutter with flash): This will not work with eletronic flash because the flash duration is so short that the entire film will not be exposed by the flash before the shutter finishes it's travel. However, there were Focal Plane flashbulbs that have a very long flash duration that are designed for this application. Look for GE #31 bulbs, but they can be expensive.

Regards,
Dave
_________________
I guess that I could get a digital camera but it would be obsolete in a couple of years (three tops). Or I could use my 3x4 Anniversary Speed Graphic. Heck, it's been obsolete for 50 years. That's way better than digital.

[Tyler]

Dave,
Thank you that is extremely helpful.

[C. Henry]

A look in the Photo Lab Index indicates that a #5 reaches half peak output at about 9ms, peaks at 20ms and falls off to half peak at about 36ms after the firing impulse, this is from a graph on page 21 in Section 10(Supplement No. 170).
Tabular data on page 10-17(Supplement No. 99) indicates that a #25 bulb reaches peak at 20ms and has a half peak duration of 14ms, no listing of when it first reaches half peak.
You should be able to use these bulbs at shutter speeds no faster than 1/25 sec. (shutter open for 40ms).

C. Henry

[Tyler]

Thank you C. Henry!
I have some #11 and #22 which fit my Graflex Flash. Without much ambient light shooting at 1/25 ......
I have been looking on ebay for a solenoid to attach and then I just figured STOP! I am very much into the camera but what is best for me ?..... and that just brings me back to electronic flash. If the Graphex Optar does not work with either flash system, I will only use it when I do not need flash.......which is about 90% of what I do. In the future if a Graphex 135mm with M or solenoid shows up on ebay I can decide then to start again.....I have a lot of bulbs.
Thank you for all the help,
Tyler
I am going to pick up a CL-1 or 2 or 3 or 4 or CT -1, 2, 3, or 4 today on ebay.

[C. Henry]

Still had the Photo Lab Index out so checked specs on #11 & #22 bulbs.
Both peak at 20ms, #11 has a half peak duration of 13ms, #22 has half peak duration of 14ms. Both appear to reach half peak at about 15ms.
For use with focal plane shutter a long peak plateau is needed, at least 25ms and 35-40ms would be more certain.

C. Henry

[Tyler]

If I picked up a lens with the M sync and relied on the lens shutter than I am good with those bulbs ?