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ImageMaker
Joined: 20 Jun 2006 Posts: 93 Location: North Carolina
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Posted: Thu Jul 06, 2006 4:47 pm Post subject: |
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Okay, just read on the other thread what I suspected from looking at the pictures on eBay: the folding infinity stops from a Pacemaker won't fit my Annie.
So, has anyone experimented with fabricating stops to fit this model? I currently have *one* stop (camera-left rail only), and I'd like to expand to having stops for both my 13.5 cm Skopar and my 150 mm Componon (I'd use marks for the 105 mm Agnar and the 265 mm rear group of the Componon -- eventually I plan to fabricate and hand engrave scales for all of these but the Skopar, which seems to match the one scale that came with the camera and for which I'm likely to adjust the Kalart RF if/when I ever get the beam splitter replaced).
The stop I have looks simple enough, and I'm pretty sure the spring clip is an optional accessory rather than a necessary item; I think I could make something like this with brass channel and tube or bar stock from a hobby shop, plus a little soldering, drilling, and tapping. Any ideas why this wouldn't work?
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disemjg
Joined: 10 Jan 2002 Posts: 474 Location: Washington, DC
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Posted: Sun Jul 09, 2006 11:49 pm Post subject: |
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Yes, they can be made, but the hobby shop channel stock is probably going to be thinwall that cannot provide enough "meat" for a strong tapped hole. I'd cut them from brass or aluminum bar stock to get the necessary thickness. If you do not have access to a mill, a few judicious hack saw cuts folllowed by jewlers files should do the trick.
Tapping the hole will be another animal entirely; if you do not have any miniature taps, they can be expensive and hard to come by. You can get such things from MSC Industrial (MSCdirect.COM). I assume you have suitable screws.
Best bet is to hunt down the real McCoy rather than trying to make your own. I would not think they would be too expensive.
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ImageMaker
Joined: 20 Jun 2006 Posts: 93 Location: North Carolina
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Posted: Mon Jul 10, 2006 9:40 pm Post subject: |
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Well, as it happens, I've got some model building tools, including a #4-40 tap and drill set, so tapping for a screw I can get easily isn't a problem. However, you're right that I'd probably have to solder on a piece of bar or strip (I've seen strip up to .064") to get enough thickness to take a screw.
As you suggest, however, it's probably preferable to mill them from bar stock. I have limited milling capability, but there's always the hacksaw and needle files route, sure enough...
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45PSS
Joined: 28 Sep 2001 Posts: 4081 Location: Mid Peninsula, Ca.
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Posted: Tue Jul 11, 2006 12:41 am Post subject: |
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I thought the screws were a #0 or #00.
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ImageMaker
Joined: 20 Jun 2006 Posts: 93 Location: North Carolina
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Posted: Wed Jul 12, 2006 4:24 am Post subject: |
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The screws in the one stop I have are pretty small, no question -- though I doubt they're any smaller than about #2 (#2-56 is still a pretty easy size to find, both for tap-drill sets and screws). Since they're effectively just setscrews, I don't feel I have to match the originals, though I have in fact seen screws as small as #0-80 and #00-90, and matching taps and tap drills, at hobby shops that cater to model railroading and engine modelers.
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