Graflex.org

[euswdwj]

I just got an Optar lens with a Wallensack apature and shutter assembly. One of the aperture blades is heald slightly more open than the others. The result is a tear-shaped opening that is most extreme when the stopped down to f/32.

Being somewhat mechanically enclined and a gadget nut, my first thought is to open 'er up and see if it is something obvious. But before I do, I would like to hear from somone who has had some experience with this type of lens and find out what I might be getting myself into.

So what _might_ I be getting myself into?

[euswdwj]

Here are some pictures of the lens:

Left View

Right View


[ This Message was edited by: euswdwj on 2006-02-18 06:36 ]

[45PSS]

This is a standard #1 graflex shutter.
Options: Replace it. Use this one as a parts shutter to fix another.(recomended solution)
Repait it?: Get a repair manual for Graflex shutters from Craig Camera http://www.craigcamera.com/ , you'll need it.
Remove the lens elements front and rear; remove the front plate; remove all levers and springs from top support plate; remove top support plate; remove shutter blades and assoicated hardware; remove diaphragm plate and replace or repair defective diaphragm leaf then reassemble and adjust as needed. The case will be empty of all other parts when the diaphragm plate is removed. Use a digital camera and take many pictures showing the detail of the varrious pieces in the assembled shutter and after each major part is removed making sure to show how they are interconnected.
The manual shows this as a Stage Six disassembly of six stages.

Charles

_________________
The best camera ever made is the one that YOU enjoy using and produces the image quality that satifies YOU.

[Henry]

This looks to be a no. 2 (or externally similar no. 3) Graphex shutter; the lens is 6-1/2" [~162mm] focal length, if I read it correctly. It's a bit unusual in that the press focus seems to be a button, not the more familiar (to me, at least) lever. As to your problem: unfortunately, the aperture blades are located at the very rear of the shutter, just ahead of the rear lens elements, and getting to them involves a complete tear-down, as 45PSS noted. If you've not done such a thing before, I wouldn't advise it. But are you sure it's the aperture blades? If it's the *shutter* blades, that's a different story. You don't have to disassemble the shutter nearly as far to get to them; still, not a job for a beginner. Matter of fact, I have a Graphex #2 with Fred Lustig right now for balky shutter blades.

You could remove the front and rear lens elements and squirt Ronosonol lighter fluid into the works while exercising all the moving parts. This might free something that's gunked up inside there. You can use the search feature on the board; look under "Ronsonol" or "Ronsonol soak," as there has been much discussion pro and con about this procedure. It's worked well for me, but if something is truly amiss with your shutter (e.g., bent parts, weak or disconnected springs, etc.) Ronosonol won't fix it. But it's a lot easier than a tear-down, and cheaper than sending it out for repair.



[ This Message was edited by: Henry on 2006-02-17 18:40 ]

[45PSS]

The shutter repair manual referenced is for Graflex #1, #2, #3 shutters and is what I used as a guide in my first post. Aperture blades (diaphragm leaf) have two holes that pins go thru, one being center of the leaf just above the shutter opening usually close to the center of the leaf and the other near the outter most edge of the leaf. One of the holes may be elipical. The one closest to the center of the lens is the hinge point and the other at the outer edge is the operating cam connection. I suspect that a leaf has come off one of the pins, the hole is torn, or the pin is loose. If the leaf has just come off the pin then carefully moving it or holding it while moving the aperture lever might get it back in position. Diaphragm leafs are very delicate, easily torn or deformed. Any drag or binding of a diaphragm leaf will result in such a torn hole or jumped pin and being described as lazy I suspect the hinge opening of the leaf to be damaged.

The Graflex are simple enough shutters that IF one is good with small delicate things, has above adverage mechanical abilites, and can follow technical instructions and diagrams, then have some fun learning how to fix a broken shutter.
Charles


_________________
The best camera ever made is the one that YOU enjoy using and produces the image quality that satifies YOU.

[euswdwj]

I want to thank every one for your very useful pointers and as always your encouragement.

On careful examination, there is exactly one leaf that is not pivoting as the aperture is adjusted. It is clearly not attached at the outer most edge. All the remaining leaves seem to be pivoting properly.

My plan is to order that manual that and try to find something to practice on.

Oh, yea. That press focus does look like a button in the picture but it is a leaver. The knob is screwed in and looks like it could easily be attached to a hook and cable.

Thanks everyone for getting me started in the right direction.

[troublemaker]

It appears that you have a digital camera that you took the photos you posted. Use it to make detailed images of every stage (I suggest a couple each even if you think you don't need them) and esspecially where the springs are located throughout every dissassembly process. IF you have never done one of these before, practice removing and replacing each part as you remove them. IF you do not have a felt or some kind of soft tray to work on use an old white t-shirt spread out nice and flat. As you dissassemble and make your photos, place parts in a usefull arrangement above and to the side of the shutter body with thier springs screws etc. You will need a good set of jewelers drivers and a good set of flat sided long nose surgical tweezers, non magnetized. Stanley Tools has a nice set of assorted small drivers available at most home or hardware stores. Be careful setting small screws in place with tweesers as they tend to launch themselves.
Also, if this aperture blade has jumped its slide groove, try not to move it around anynmore until you get it fixed as the part that rides in the groove is a very thin cylindrical hollow post that is easily worn and delicate. Wollensak shutter and aperture blades are metal spring steel, so you can use a variety of quick dry cleaners to get them oil, fingerprint dry and clean. If you remove these, lay them out and clean one at a time and replace in the exact order they were removed (I reason that parts that are broken in to each other should be replaced as such) . I make a quick diagram of the order in which they are removed on a note card, how they are layed down if they look to be correctly assembled which one comes off first and the order around the shutter, ussually clockwise. The diaphram in Graphex shutters are ussually suposed to come out all together because the blades are held in place. So Charles is probably right that the blade in question has come off its pin. This may or may not be repairable and must be evaluated upon dissassembly. It depends if the peaned end of the pin has worn off or can still be used. Wollensak shutters are perhaps the easiest to work on, but keep in mind that there are things one can only learn by experience and printed literature is only going to provide suplementary information and sometimes the info and pictures can actually be more confusing than helpful though we like to think the later. For starters check out this site for some preliminary info on servicing the Wollensak #2 shutter.
http://presscameras.graywolfphoto.com/graphex.html

If this is a 162mm lens it may be a #3 but Wollys are all very similar in their opperation with most diffences being in the name plate and Speed dial plate throughout thier production history and model sizes.
The name drop for Fred Lustig may end up being your best alternative if he has the new diaphram plate assembly in stock. He may require you send the shutter for complete service, which if you like the lens, and want consistent and reliable service for your photo work, may be the best long run thing for ya, esspecially if not too worried about a few bucks.
So if you decide to try a tear down, be very careful not to bend or break anything because you can always send it out later in parts and it can easily be put back together from puzzle form.
Oh, one last thing, see if you can unscrew the back lens and look in and see the diaphram guide slots and determine if the one bad blade has its guide post in or out of its groove. You should see the others and determine what I am saying and see the delicate hollow post I am talking about above. If it is out of its guide, it is possible to coax it back in and see if it works. I have had these guide plates where they are very loose and a slight tweek when dissassembled can seat them more firmly and add some tension to the setting ring when they are so loose the aperture setting will not stay open where you want it etc...
I hope some of this is helpful... Let me know if you want more info on working on a shutter.

[JoePhoto]

It sounds like one of the pins that the blade moves with might have been broken off. That problem would be difficult to fix without a replacement blade.

_________________
If the best can't be had let the worst continue....

[euswdwj]

Do you know of a parts source besides scrapping another shutter? I would be willing to purchase anything from a single shutter blade to a complete but less than functional assembly.

Though it is somewhat off topic I would like to express how overwhelmed I am by the wonderful responses to my question. At some point I might take it for granted but in the interest of savoring this moment, I would like to convey my gratitude and thanks.